Makawao Steak House Ruin
The tradition of the upcountry seems to be the tradition that doesn't change of being a place for the local cuisine with Iwaishi Restaurant and Soda Fountain (1927) and later a reflection of the Maui Paniolo cowboys that would work the ranches as a Steak House (1982) from Larry Philips. Looking back at the building it looks like the store front was nice, but the building never expanded to suit the need of the large amount of overtourism that came to the island to visit the now historic area. The Makawao Steak House had closed down as many other mom and pop shops, because it was really hard to keep traditional menu items, evolve the menu to modern times, and build a following that was different from all the other steak houses out there on Maui. As Maui drew more tourists and the fake plastic leis the expectation from those on the mainland were high for the already declining popularity of the relic old Steak house. In the 1970s-1980s there were more upper class restaurants that served steak and of course steak houses were under those, so for Makawao Steak House to survive it would have to serve something drastically different from the rest. Looking at the old menu there were: steaks, jumbo shrimp, pork, prime rib... a not so updated salad bar: Iceberg lettuce, shaved carrots, sliced cucumbers, croutons, sunflower seeds, raisins, and the dressings were whats usually found at home… As it says on the menu Asian Style Braised Shortribs, Braised Lamb Shank, Jidori Chicken, Tempura Mahimahi & Chips, Herb Grilled Vegetagbles, Kobe Beef Burger, Colossal Shrimp Pasta, Top Sirloin, Steak, Angus Ribeye Steak, Beef Tenderloin, Hawaii Ranchers New York Steak, T-Bone Steak, and Prime Rib. With going to a large amount of restaurants from all over the world it is missing a few of the things which keep regional areas alive. The menu sort of looks like it was playing it too safe by seeing what sold in the tourist area, which is not quite the expecation of the area. So what is the expectation? the local taste, reinvention, and timeless experience. Either steak houses can be that old school flair that a million dollar look or have a steak house for the cowboys. With it being near the ranches it would most likely be a way for an affordable meal and need some sort of take out as well as eat in reservations. With meat being a big expense, it can be hard to do typical steak house dry age with the limited space and no space for a large wine cellar, so this particular establishment would have to depend on their sides as well as their dishes. Trends in Hawaii are something to notice and with steaks the hotels tend to have the trends calculated for the most part. A side that has grown in popularity is Buttered Mashed Sweet Potatoes, Steakhouse Fries, and when in Hawaii people think of Prime Rib as the number one steak dish, ichiban giant, numero uno of cowboys! So, luckily that cut was on their menu. Makawao has access to the nearby areas of Kula with high elevations for farm and produce, Haiimaile where there are some great fruits, and Maui is famous for its goat cheese and mushrooms. The establishment was previously owned by Japanese and many techniques are similar to the plantation, so that sets the scene of what would be expected of such a steak house. So the expectation would be a mix of all these elements with a emphasis on what creative local ways the area can sell moderately but not high priced meals on the go and large value meals for families. It is sad for whatever reason the circumstances were that the place had to shut down there was a lot to be desired and I feel it is not the problem of the establishments efforts, but the rising prices of the area boutiques and traveling high spenders. As I learn more about Maui-Paniolo culture I think it might be the key to ask the right questions on what is the local cowboy meal experience? what is the local recipes people eat at home when they make their dine at home meal? what sort of things do people want to eat in Hawaii and then share it with the rest of the world. That is where the real secret lies and thats the real foods that can bring this place back hopefully. I will check out a book I heard called "Whats cooking in Makawao" and talk to some people who lived or are living there now. It was a good historical study of a place that has that old school appeal. But, I don't think there will be much I can be taking away menu wise of a regional dish, but I can always hope there are hidden stories coming my way by those who knew of the hayday of this place when so many people had come for a great meaty meal...
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Wo Fat Restaurant
“Pigging out till you kanak, leaving you so fat from wo fats” In Memory of Wo Fat Restaurant (1882-2005) Historic China Town, Wo Fat Building (1882), was at the corner of Maunakea street and Hotel street with a really beautiful top floor that grabs peoples attention. The building would have a someone selling papers in front back in the day with clubs near its red light district where many Theatres had erotic shows going on: Penthouse Theatre, Esquire Theatre, and Pink Pussycat Theater. Also later on there were clubs that arose called “Club Glades Show Lounge (LGBT)” and “Club Hubba Hubba” that would bring people to the China Town Night Life. Wo Fat, had many floors with the first having a Cafe, the second being a restaurant only open for lunch, and the third was the banquet hall that was often reserved. Wo fat restaurant would also display Chinese culture through the art of “Tea Dance” that had folk music and a performance or “Polynesian Dance” and “Gig Performances”. After the war many of these shows would be seen much less or only for special occasions. It almost seems like the entire establishment as many in Hawaii were a place trapped in time. During World War II, the restaurant had issued dining coupons to those who served in the war. During that time there were fortune tellers in boothes that would tell the future trying to get the attention of people on the busy streets. Sailors who came off the boats would be coming and going with plenty of noise coming from the restaurant as it was lively with laughing while it was noisy as well from all the partying. There use to be a odor back then as well, since it was hard to keep the entire area of China Town clean. Architect Y.T. Char designed the Wo Fat building as Honolulu’s first Chinese Architect. It is one of the oldest buildings in the area as a protected landmark with the Wo Far sign showing its age with the lights and the pagoda roof tiles. The original building burned down in the 1886 “China Town Fires” and it burned down again in the 1900 “Great China Town Fire”, and in 1937 the building was taken down to be rebuilt into a better building. Families would often meet up on Sundays as a tradition of family gatherings and for many who enjoyed Hawaii’s china town they would meet at Wo Fat restaurant for their Family-style Nine Course Meals. Owned by the Wong Ohana, running the restaurant really took the whole family with many relatives who worked at Wo Fats. From the bussing the tables, to the dish washing, to the scheduling and ordering, to the kitchen management in the back there was an entire operation in there. When being a customer who ate at the restaurant there would be various entrees brought to the turning table (aka. Lazy Susan) in the center that would always move as people on the table wanted to keep eating their most ono favorites. Chinese music would be in the background of the fancy restaurant and every Friday evening they would burn a line of fireworks that would light up the night. It was a Chinatown Icon, Kalapana did a photo shoot in front of Wo Fat. The people shooting downtown for Hawaii Five-O gave the villain character of Steve Mcgarrett the name of the restaurant nemeses “Mr. Wo Fat”. And many people passed on their stories from their generation to the next of eating at parties at Wo Fats all the way into the 1970s. The older recipes were kept with a number of cooks that worked with the restaurant for many years and those dishes are different from what people refer to as “New Wo Fat” recipes that were cooked later on. One of the many cooks had the blessings of the original owners when opening “Las Vegas Wo Fat” in 3700 East Desert Inn. The dishes, many would be really into the steamed buns (char siu bao) with the large amounts of pork filling. The duck noodle soup was also ordered as it had one fourth of a duck with the thigh and leg in a sauce. Other dishes people would look forward to were: Ox Tail soup with Saimin, Won ton soup, Chinese Pig Feet Soup with Look Funn, Birds Nest Soup, Abalone Soup, Chicken Feet Soup, Shark Fin Soup, Oyster Chicken with Cake Noodle, Squash Soup in Gourd, Taro Duck, Kau Yuk, Pineapple Chicken, Chinese chicken salad, Mongolian beef, Egg Fu Young Patties with sauce, Crispy Gau Gee, Peking Duck, Oyster Rolls, Pork Watercress Harm Ha, Lupcheong and Broccoli Spears, Shrimp Skewers w/black bean sauce, real deal crab, fortune cookie, rice cake, and almond cookie. The menu was extensive because often times there would be a yearly review of what menu items were to stay and which ones would go by the Board. There was plenty of food to go around the next day and it was said to be “Family Cheap” with the Fresh Hot Tea, left-overs packed in containers with metal handles, and would expose many people to Hawaii-Chinese cuisine. Combined families would go for numerous reasons like: milestone birthdays, weddings, baptisms, military sendoffs, baby blessing celebration, grad parties, and weddings for some good tasting food and great fun to be had. “No can fit in the palm of your hand, needs two hands”
Char Hung Sut (1945-2020), north pauahi street downtown, was a legendary manapua shop that was serving specialty manapua, pork hash, half moon, mai tai soo, yap chai, taro cakes, and more. It was known across all the islands as the to place go when visiting Oahu and this was no secret with people going there on their check list for gifts to bring back to their family and friends or even just the office. With the mindset of making a “big buggah of a manapua” and “Hawaiian sized” to not leave anyone starving and the family generosity found at pot lucks the eatery was on a mission to make some really delicious and filling foods that stuffs the box with beloved delights. To many locals it was the number one spot that never could be beat for bringing the manapua to the masses with its signature size and a regional variation that is known as the old school original of the area. In 1945, Bat Moi Kam (1906-2003) Mau of the Mau Ohana had founded Char Hung Sut. She was born in Yin Jai Book village, Chungshan, China, and met her husband Harry Marn Sin Mau from the customary arranged marriage matchmaker of the village who was her husbands cousin. Soon after she would be working on the family farm Atkinson Drive raising ducks, then working at Dole Cannery making candied apples for military forces, and eventually got to making dim sum with pork, taro, duck, chicken, shrimp, coconut paste, black bean paste, jook on the side, and worked with co-owner Kim Tow Ho. Back in the day they were also known for some of the best duck noodle, gun lo mein, chow fun, and rice cakes. The family would be in Manao and later on have some family members move to Waimanalo. A must stop place for locals and even tourists, Char Hung Sut can be a bit confusing as well as intimidating at times to those who had never gone before with steam in the air, the smell of pork practically everywhere. Near the stir fry station there would be the clanking of the pans with the wok and tossing of the fried noodles that would be quickly slung from bowls to take out containers. When you came in there would be a pink ticket that had a menu list of what they served up and scribble the number of orders, so the staff would know ahead of time, especially for those larger orders it would be important. Char Hung Sut was more than a Honolulu must stop place for grindz (food), but the Chinese Manapua shop is an establishment that marks the cultural community that is placed around it, the evolution of local, and a story of transformation through the years with much efforts to remain a quality place with large portions. It was a place that showed a bit of the past and how it transitioned to the present with similar minded immigrants with traditions that would have to change with the times and change with the local culture that it was adapting to in its clientele. As embraced all people with its copious amounts of food, it would be tradition that if there was a party going on the place to pick up the manapua for it would more than likely be Char Hung Sut. There were some families that would know their relative loved the dishes there until their departure to the after life and their family would go to the chinese cemetery in manoa and leave manapua at the tomb stone and visit their ancestors and then have many more boxes distributed to the family to take home. Another Hawaiian family with Chinese heritage would set up a picnic at the cemetery in local fashion and eat at the tombstone of their ancestors as if they were still alive. It can be tracked that other family recipes for Manapua would have been inspired by Char Hung Sut, with such recipes found in: Kaimuki, Manoa, Palolo, and Nuuanu. Mea’ono Pua’a, as many recipes of this secret dish are kept under wraps it is actually been adopted by many Hawaiian families as originally named Mea’ono Pua’a (manapua) and seen as a dish for a hang over cure or a food to bring to the beach. It is to no surprise as many of the Mau family have hapa relatives that make a mixture of Hawaiian and Chinese cuisine. It was a dining place that was synonymous with the life of downtown Chinatown: down to business, filling and big, family style with aloha, but if you take to long the line will start to get a bit frustrated as many have been going for years and have practically memorized their orders. It was the birthplace of Manapua in Hawaii food and inspired so many variations in Chinatown over the years that were eaten from families that lived there as well as all around town making Chinatown a steamed Manapua mecca of sorts. You would see stacks of metal pans one on top of another and large amounts of fillings, noodle wrappers (aka. shells), and near endless steamer sets. The huge manapuas that were once not known are a staple of many families when they are on the go, bringing foods to pot luck, and bringing food to hungry athletes. Inside, the place inside seems like a warehouse setting and a festival at the same time with a fun in a crazy way atmosphere of food going in and out really fast. There were many local celebrities, well known people in the community, sports stars, and political figures who would stop by, but the humble place never placed photos of these appearances on their wall. Many would be familiar with many Mau family members like Harry Mau or grandma Barbara who would always be so friendly with her nice smile and worked really hard to help the family build the treasure of Char Hung Sut. Mau Ohana would be known to cook pork twice to make sure there was no grease, it was Bat Moi Kam Mau’s technique, but something else kept the meat very succulent, even without the grease, and is known as what makes Oahu Manapua unique townside. Flamingos originally started on Ala Moana near Honolulu Iron Works, but there were many other locations with Flamingo Kapiolani, Flamingo Chuck wagon, Flamingo Ala Moana, Flamingo Kaneohe, Flamingo Pearl City, and Flamingos Royal Lanai. Flamingos was first called "Eliott's Chuck Wagon" and then the name would be changed to “Flamingos”. Next to Elliott’s Chuckwagon was the Elliott’s Car Lot that was close by which many would think were associated with one another. Great memories of people going in on special occasions, date-nights, sunday family dinners, or a treat on pay-day with no worries on if the food would taste good or not. Salad and dessert came with the meal with workers always checking to see if you needed fill ups or just to check up on you if you were ok. It really shined with “family style love”.
There use to be long lines to get in because it got people full and got them in and out of there with the customers considering the ones behind them. Flamingo's was the place to be and gave Zippy’s some difficult competition that would make the prices be affordable at both places, especially back then the dinner scene would have all sorts of places trying to get people in the doors. People would use the rooms in the back for banquets and meetings throughout the week, like the: Lions Club Meeting, Bowling Banquets, Wedding Receptions, and Business meetings on the regular. The Nagamine Ohana, Danny, Thelma, and Steven were the owners of the Flamingos restaurants where they kept business in the family and would hire all sorts of people teaching them what they knew. It was like working for an uncle and Mr Nagamine would say things like eat good so you can work hard and smile before heading off to other operations in the restaurant. Many of their employees remember the family to be very kind and generous as well as being extremely pleasant people with a business sense that was sharp and that proved to be a wonderful combination for good fortune. The place would always be full of life with the Nagamine family and Mr Nagamine would laugh and talk to customers with his aging raspy voice. It really had the charm of a truly Local family restaurant, treated people like family as they ate and made sure they were full. It was what people would know about it and love about it as they would go there to support the family and to feed their own at the same time. The thing about Flamingos that would be above many of its competitors was that the family really wanted people to feel like they were dining in a restaurant owned by their friends instead of that professional feel. It was where you were treated with real aloha and the food was the best that the family could bring in and that in itself would be memorable. Old Friends would meet up in the bar and talk about the work day or the town gossip that was going on. In the back you could hear Keone Keaka and Akau, Dee and Brother Greg play music in the bar, sometimes Jake Hoopai, the drinks were being served in the family atmosphere by people like Bartender Paul Kwock would be serving up the crowd. Word of mouth would get around that it was the place to be and the Flamingos commercials on the television helped people remember the place with that little jingle on the radio with DJ Lou Richards KGMB who did the narration. No one left hungry and it was a fixture of Honolulu for many years, so some people felt when it closed there would be many people who would be hungry as a sort of omen. There was a wooden horse outside with a large wheel and you would walk in the door to see what was fancy at the time the interior with wood, brick, and a paniolo feel to it. At the entrance there were toothpicks and Andy’s mints before sitting down and looking at the menu to order things on it or head down to the buffet that had all sorts of things to eat. When ordering a complete meal of soup and salad with an entree and drink (unlimited refills) with dessert people would say "soup to nuts" to place their order. When it closed it made way for what can be seen as now high rise condos at the location Prime Rib Buffet, it was made famous in Hawaii for different places, but the place that got everyone a taste of it would be Flamingos. When people think of the prime rib from Flamingos they would have a strategy for hungry locals and that would be to be schooled in the secrets of the buffet. Go over to pick at the smaller items that would be nice to taste and then go through the line once to eat the prime rib and then a second time to be extra full and than a third to kanaks and zip lock the rest of it. The good prime rib would be nice with the mash potatoes as it would still have all the juices left on it from being pretty fresh and nicely carved by one of the employees to make sure everyone got their famous prime rib at an affordable family price. The UH football team would head on over to come down to fill up and clean out the buffet, but they would trust in the food to keep them going for practice, maybe it was part of the secret to the games they won. There was a time where Akebono went to go grind there. Dishes: The Double crusted Banana pie, Lacey Shrimp Tempura, Breaded chicken Cutlet with Gravy all over, Breaded Veal Cutlet with Gravy all over, Crunchy Beer Battered Fish and Chips (juicy mahi-mahi plate) w/Onion Relish Tartar Sauce, Roast Beef and Scallop Potatoes, Bread Thick Beef Cutlet with Gravy all over, Shoyu Barbeque Ribs, Sweet sour pork chops, Lamb curry stew (Thursdays), Biscuits, Rolls, Liver and Onions, Soup with Soda Crackers, Fried chicken, Grilled Butterfish, Steak and Spaghetti, Roast Turkey, Broiled chicken, Beef teriyaki plate came with toss salad with Green Goddess or Tropical French Dressing. They made non-processed homemade veal patties. mushroom gravy on da mash people would order vanilla ice cream and make Red Malolo fruit punch floats. They had many choices of drinks, Hot tea, iced tea, hot coffee, coke, rootbeer, 7up, fruit punch, orange. Desserts jello with whipped cream, fruit cup, chocolate pudding, vanilla, tapioca, apple, warm custard pies. "Nothing like it! Only 20 Minutes Drive from Town!"
Pearl City Tavern (1939-July 15th, 1993), aka PCT, was on corner of Kamehameha Highway, Lehua Avenue cat lot and acted as a Pearl City landmark as a popular destination. The first Town & Country Surf Shop was across the street at the time, so the area was filled with shops to go to before or after eating at the restaurant. Guests like KGU Radio (1940’s) had done broadcast shows from Pearl City Tavern with Marie Mitchells or when Johnny Carson came. The shop had its hardships with a fire at the top of roof with the trees, then there was when the waters flooded it in the late 1950’s and was destroyed by a raging mob in the 1970’s. Mauka of the water was the where the location was where Pan Am Clipper’s could be heard with their propellers thundering and splashes being heard made it seem to present the magic of air travel. Location was everything Pearl Harbor had a landing area for air to water aircrafts. Old plantation style houses would be around the area with many people seeing it as a fancy place that was expensive and not all that accessible to those looking for cheap eats. Girls back then had a saying “If a man took you here there, he was serious”. Many remember it as a great restaurant with one particular waiter that would get everyone’s order on spot no matter the size of the part and had quite the reputation for his memory. Fukuoka Ohana, in 1939 George & Irene Fukuoka started the restaurant as a small eatery that grew out of its first location with screen doors and a dance floor as a coffee shop. It was so successful it had to move to a larger location with Japanese decor, coin-operated Karaoke machine, and have staff that were beautifully dressed in kimonos or in jackets with ties. The customers over the years had changed and so did the menu to keep up with the times with more of a formal setting and French Bread with a Sushi Bar. The Fukuoka Ohana was making quite the legacy for themselves and one of the Fukuoka Ohana, nephew George H. Matsuoka who was the manager of PCT would open “Little Georges” (1970s) “A Kiss without a mustache” near the airport and then later on a restaurant bar in downtown Honolulu while keeping in touch with the faithful Dohrman Hotel & Restaurant Supply. But thats a story for another time. The Monkey Bar (40-feet long) with real monkeys that left people remembering the noises of the monkeys and to be the major “watering hole” of the area with many drunkards and brawls between those from the Navy fist fighting those in the Marines. It is said occasionally the monkeys would escape and run loose all over the back part of the restaurant going up electrical poles or into peoples yards with employees running to catch them. Other antics would involve pilots from the Navy who would throw beer at the monkeys and the monkeys would mimic them in return. People would be mesmerized by the monkeys swinging back and forth while they drank their Zombie, Long Island Ice Tea, Good mai tais, and ate peanuts at the bar, for those who stayed a little to long would see the monkeys doing inappropriate acts of breeding. A joke would be that the glass with the monkeys would be to keep them alive to eat them fresh for monkey meat sashimi, monkey brains like adventure movies, or just to give a strange idea of eating a monkey in general. As time went on the monkeys would be removed, nowadays it is likely there would be public outcry from animal abuse activists, but such times with crazy monkeys have passed. The Military just loved Pearl City Tavern, many customers came from the us military base stationed servicemen who were at the Pearl City Peninsula area and was revered as a must go to place and later on a War relic that reminds people of the servicemen that went there and how it should have been preserved. Those heading to the Persian Gulf would resupply in Pearl Harbor from ship or Air Craft Carrier would have many hours to wait, so many sailors would look for the famous PCT. The restaurant cared a lot for their clientele regardless of their background and took care of the military with complimentary tokens that when presented came with a special greeting and complimentary drink when presenting the token. The owners helped out when they could with contributing's of 11,000 dollars to the army and navy relief funds. Inside, it was a place to see monkeys behind a enclosed window by the bar and multiple seating areas for different experiences with interesting things showcased like the biggest Maine lobster, a Asteroid mineral, and a Full set of Samurai Armor. There was a bonsai garden on the rooftop, different dining rooms with different menus, and a sushi bar at the end of its days. People could go in and point at seafood like the lobster in a tank and that is the lobster that would be served to them. The staff would be cleaning the lobster tanks, clean water filters, washed dishes, and feed the monkeys from time to time. People walking down the street would refer to it as a place to meet and some passing by would peep inside on their way to Parkers (cards store). You could sometimes hear Carol Lee singing there, the Kenny Richards Trio, Kapena, Ray Andrews, Archie Kahanu, Piano players, and other acts to lighten up the evening entertainment of the place. The Menu, was filled with American, Italian, and Chinese dishes, there were complimentary dish of Fried Wonton for Pupus as well for those who dined in there. If it wasn’t the steak, the seafood, or the elaborate presentation and staff it would be the atmosphere that made it so memorable. But, back to the food, memorable dishes like: deep fried mahi, stuffed lobster, stuffed crab shell, lobster thermidor, teriyaki salmon, teriyaki sirloin steak, steak sandwich, butter scallops, and seashore platter (aka. Pearl City Seashore Pack) mahi mahi, shrimp, and crab, kept people coming back for more. Notable dishes that were a site to see were “The Neptune lobster” ($35.00. 1970s) stuffed with celery, onion, scallops, baby shrimp, crab, mayonnaise, soda crackers, herb and spices. Another one would be the Ice Cream Martini, where the staff would put the bowl of ice cream in a huge martini glass that had green water with dry ice for the smoke effect. The executive chefs were: Hiyoshi Fukuoka (executive chef) and later on Toshimasa Nomura “Masa” (executive chef, 1966-1993). It was said Masa was serious about hunting rats who entered his kitchen by shooting them to make sure there was no one sick who ate his food. “More Great Food than you can Shake a Chopstick at!”
Patti’s Chinese Kitchen (1967-2008), was located in Ala Moana and known for being one of the local corner stones of Hawaii Chinese Cuisine that had long been established with fast-food Chinese food in Hawaii as a brand-new concept. Home cooked local-style Chinese food combined with the plate lunch along with the local-flavors found only at a few eateries around the island, because there are popular Northern Chinese flavors that are authentic, but are they Hawaii Chinese flavored with the culture and people that left their rich legacies from the restaurant scene? Patti’s always followed the Chun Ohana’s low-cost with high-quality philosophy to feed Hawaii families. Patti Chun, is the “Patti” of Patti’s Chinese Kitchen was a strong advocate for the local flavor that was different from Hong Kong, Szechwan, or California with its unique flavor profiles that worked with many of the drippings from a variety of their roast: chicken, duck, char siu, and plenty of seasoning. She was the daughter of Calvin and Thelma of the Chun Ohana that was really good friends with the Lau Ohana that operated the Patti’s branch in Kaneohe that changed later to “Ming’s Kitchen”. Another Patti’s branch was in Aiea (Pearl Ridge, closed 2010, run by Patti) respectfully as a business that maintained quality. When it started it was a small take out place with the window set up similar to a Okazuya with the nickname “The Chinese Okazu” with their Princess Plate, Prince Plate, and King Plate. It then had to move to another location in Ala Moana where it would have a butcher that would be chopping up meat on order. There would be red foil bags filled with served meats that would keep the char siu and roast pork hot until you got home, so that way you didn’t have to worry if it was still warm and tasty. Inside there was a long skinny room. There were tiles that were red and black, steamers with manapua, and a metal railing guide to follow on the way to the register at the end. In 1970s, Ala Moana a place targeted towards locals and not so much Tourism was a real treasure back in the day you could eat at all sorts of places they were all lined up in a row, italian, mexican, Hawaii breakfast, Ice Cream, American Burgers “whatever the heart wen desire”. The line was always long, residents and workers in the mall knew it as a regular place that was, yet highly regarded with prices that were affordable and volumes plentiful as the local restaurant standard in the islands. Those who lived nearby would often make it a weekly thing to go there and eat in front of the shop, even those far away would go holo holo (cruise) on the bus to go to Ala Moana just to get some of that tasty Patti’s plate. Anxious teenagers and college students who were pinching pennies would always be waiting for the later hours of Patti’s Chinese Kitchen, due to the well known closing prices. Near closing they would sell their plates for 50% off, where those who would be called “being chang” would go get their food, which would also lead to less food waste at the end of the shift. While employees would laugh or grumble about it they knew it would be better than throwing the food away, so they would deal with it. But, who could resist the five spice smell of the red roasted ducks hanging up with the aroma of Hawaii Chinese food filling the outside of their place. When people went to find their food they would be looking for that a roasted duck, maybe veggie tempura, or possible kau yuk if they were up to it. Starches: Chow Funn, Fried Rice, White Rice. Other menu items include: Shrimp Roll in Canton Sauce, Sweet Sour Pork, Spring Rolls, Duck Rolls, Oyster Rolls, Pork Roll in Canton Sauce, Steam or Baked Manapua, Pork Hash, Seafood Hash (Seafood Balls), Pickled Pigs Feet, Won Ton, Gau Gee, Crab Canton, Beef Tomato, Chinese Chicken Salad, Pork Watercress, Shoyu Chicken, Honey Twist, Almond Cookies, Coconut Gin Dui, Brown Sugar Rice Cake, Chinese Wedding Cake. Andrew Cheng saw Pattis Chinese Kitchen and changed his sit down to be like a Hawaii style place with the Okazu appeal that would change take-out on the mainland forever. Many years later as the Panda Express grew ever larger with mega dollars funding it the mall became more interested in money than the locals and that spelled doom for Patti’s Kitchen as the direction the mall would take in that time would be towards fast-food franchises and less local for profits. This meant going towards places like Panda express with their ketchup sauces and American-Chinese, Southern California Cuisine would take away customers who did not know much about Hawaii-Chinese and Hawaii Local Cuisine. It would be a shame that the place was getting older and the trends were leaning towards fast-food with the mall itself and the Local Food customers had a hard time competing with Tourism out of state money customers seeking something familiar rather than regional. But it never stopped Patti’s from loading up those plate lunches until they seemed like they were to explode. Many have memories of family meals at Patti’s and their plate lunches. “Da Bomb Saimin that could draw a crowd for sure! Guaran-ballbearins!”
Dillingham Saimin (1956-2020) is a Hawaii Saimin Shop that got its start as Boulevard Saimin and with a direction that would have built upon the legacy menu of Boulevard Saimin and became known for some of the same dishes and some of the Dillingham Saimin variety. The Tanaka Ohana (Lynn) still has it in the family and it was headed by Reid Yagi who went for a style that would have its own charm and maintained the original location of Boulevard. Boulevard Saimin started at 1425 Dillingham Boulevard with owner Toshiaki Tanaka (1924-2019) of the 442nd Medics “Go For Broke” would be with his wife and raised Joyce Tanaka, Lynn Tanaka, and Joan Tanaka. He was a partner in Tanaka Orchid Nursery for several years then entered food business with saimin being of interest to him. He would always keep making saimin day in and day out “Old Fashion Kine” where he would feed folks and chat with customers. He really would get to know the people in the community as he knew it wasn’t only a place to bring families, but a place to gather as a community hub for discussions, and share the happy times. The story of Boulevard Saimin, Dillingham Saimin, and Tanaka Saimin goes… one daughter had her own flavor with Boulevard Saimin and another owned Dillingham Saimin as it past hands and changed in flavor and later Tanaka Saimin would pave its own path to noodles. Originally the location of Dillingham would have closed as Tanaka Saimin looked to upgrade a change in the menu and tastes. Many of the old workers enjoyed working at the location of the old Boulevard Saimin and it became one of the famous Saimin shops in Kalihi. There were rumors of internal family drama that split the locations, but much of it has been through gossiping aunties. Word had it that the saimin had a much richer flavor than other broths with a longer cook time, but it would be to support the sticks there. Barbecue stick? no problem, Tempura stick? got it covered, Grilled stick? all on the menu. The following of people would be near the area and many old timers that saw the place slowly develop and see the love, attention, and detail in the flavor. Customers would go there not only for the old school atmosphere and nostalgia, but the combo meals made it easy to order, and it still was able to feed the family on a budget. Workers at the auto repair shop across the street would go all the time, people after church would head there too, and those looking for a quick bite. Dillingham always was popular for their saimin with a burger and shrimp tempura with some swearing by the mushroom tempura as well. The recommended would often have the dishes: Wuntun Min, Tamago Toji Saimin, Oyako Saimin, Kayaku Saimin, Teri Beef Tempura, Cold Saimin, Wind Ding Plate, Cone Sushi, Onion Tempura Rings, and the Dillingham Special Mix Combo. A Kalihi favorite was the “Doedompa” (aka. Boulevard Saimin Special) that would have many people craving it. The place has its own list of stories with a few worth mentioning is the girl from molokai who wanted to make some delicious saimin would be taught the way of making it the old fashioned way and she would treasure it for years to come. Another story was sad and warm at the same time with a worker who remembers a story about a sickly customer. A customers had a sister who grew up with saimin and was not doing to good in the hospital and going through chemo to battle cancer… it was hard on her, but when food all tasted like chemicals with metallic after taste she had a request. It was Dillingham Saimin… a Tamago Toji. The family would say their goodbyes with the note below: “Aloha family, after 64 years of serving you we have decided to close our doors indefinitely. As with all businesses we have been hit hard by this pandemic and being a small mom and pop shop, we were unable to survive these trying times. We are however, working on a few projects and may open once again when this pandemic is pau but for now, please do not forget about us as we will not forget about all of you! We do appreciate all of our customers and employees who have supported us throughout the past six decades. We’ve enjoyed serving you, many of which we’ve seen grow from keiki to kupuna.” “People taking care of other people, Aloha one another, that’s all it is, its a historic place.”
Toyo’s Superette, 2801 E Manoa Rd, Honolulu, originally was across the street in 1918 where a gas station replaced it and when Toshio took over from his dad in 1954 it moved to the more iconic location that has become historic part of manoa for being a main-hub of the manoa community. And one of the most well known butchers for their relationship with the community and the way they cut. Back in the 1950s when manoa families were struggling the customers would have accounts with the family and the family would pay the balance at the end of the month as a paycheck would roll in and it really kept many families afloat. Peter Moon would always be buying stuff and Sunday Manoa (band) remembers them too. The family took pride in what they sold and it was always of good quality and it showed in their smiles and leaving the legacy that touched peoples lives. James “Blondie” Masami Okamura, (1930-2019), worked at Quantas Airlines and Toyo’s Superette with his family: Glenn, Grant, Wendy, Gayle “Keiko”. In the Meat department in the back there was always Glenn in the back with his apron and knife cutting up meat or a fish. Toyo Superette used to have a glass showcase that had all the cuts of meat lined up, seafood, boiled peanuts and what have you, the experience is when you pointed to the product you wanted to buy and the butchers prepared your order the old school pink paper. It was really the home town feeling mom and pop, dependable place with dependable people, full of love and fun that filled the day with joy as you left. Toyo’s Superette was special in little ways like when there were people who were disabled or elderly who shopped there they would carry it to your car. Joke around and get to know all the people around Manoa and entertained many people as they would wait for their rides if they were dropped off to shop at Toyo’s. There was also a funny little cat that lived near that people would feed as it meowed named “Cheetos”. When children and teens went to go fishing sometimes the owner would give them crab bait for traps, shrimp bait for fish, and wrap it all nice in the pink butcher paper taking care of everyone. Early on they had all sorts of products like some Japanese dishes, houseware, liquor selection, magazines. Across the Japanese School “Manoa Nihongogakkou” the keiki would go with their classmates free-roaming the area until they would make their way with their way to the snack section to check out the candy, the Icee’s (some were carbonated), Jade Seeds and Yick Lung Brand (Crack seed). They had these glass jars that were filled with goodies (crack seed). Some of the kids would call the money their parents gave them pocket money, toyo money, candy money, or just treasure as a kid anything from Toyo’s was a treat. Afterwards they would either kill time by sitting on the wall or make their way down the road past the library over to the bridge where all sorts of wild life could be seen in the waters. The snack list that some people remember is: Big Blo, Lemon Heads, White Rabbit, Fusen Gum, Flat Taffy, Fake Ice Cream Cone, Jungle Jollies, Rock Candy, Ranchers, Tomoe Ame, Haw Flakes, Fruit Drops round tins, Bag of Wonton Chips, Ice Cake, Hostess Snacks, Red Squid in a brown paper bag, and a Lollipop Jar at the Cash Register. The cut list: Formed Hamburgers, Sliced Luncheon Meat, Sliced Bologna, Sausage, Aku Belly, Aku Bones, Miso Butterfish. Other things in the store were: Love’s King-size Bread Loaf, Icee with Creamsicle, Dirty Magazines in the back. And if people wanted Shave Ice there was a store across from Toyo’s. A mother recalls sending her kids for a grocery errand on their bikes as they would go to get their hair cut. This would help the family as they allowed their early errands be done by the young kids to pick up some things for dinner with the friendly staff that was the Okamura ohana who would often times be of great help in their errands. The Okamura’s were very loved for their care and kindness to the community with a joke or two for laughs, so that things could be a bit more up beat. In Memory of Henry Loui's (1970's-2022) “The Best Suckin’ Ribs”
In recognition of Anna Miller’s (1973-current) “Friendly service and great food at a good value” -Wade Hashizume
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